Midday in the rainforest, near the equator - what could possibly go wrong?

A building near the artisan village

Not much to tell about last night as we ate a short dinner - one course - went to bed and read our books until time to sleep. We were prepping for our trip to Machalilla National Park in the morning. 

So up early and onto the bus where our guide told us that Ecuador has two seasons: the rainy season and the very rainy season. They expect well over a metre in annual rainfall and the green nature of the countryside bears that out. Our trip to the rainforest was going to take longer than we thought because a high tide had washed away part of the highway so we sat back to let the miles slip by. 

You can't hear a still photo, unfortunately

When I say we sat back, the Chinese-built coach was old and built for small people, frankly. My knees were jammed into the seat in front and people were jockeying to get the spare seats so they could spread out. The roads were awful, with potholes, areas unmade and unmarked, yet suddenly you’d find yourself on smooth dual carriageway. We hung on as the bus bucked and swayed at an ambitious 40mph. However, there’s little in the way of the shrines that were everywhere in Chile, so perhaps the poor surface inhibits idiot driving. 

The countryside was very striking after the townscape we left behind and we learned a few facts about the country: Ecuador exports oil, cacao and roses among other things, across the world. They use dollars to have a good trade rate, particularly with the US. They are dead keen on trade, that’s for sure, and they take every opportunity to sell at you.

Souvenir-selling villages put rope across on the road surface to make a bump to slow down vehicles whose drivers then see their stalls. For example, in what we’ll call the Tortilla village, girls were waving red kerchiefs to attract custom from drivers passing by. Some sell fruit, hats, woodwork, food or anything that might lure a passing tourist. 

Selling tuna at an intersection

Shacks, shanties, pergolas, tricycles and tables are all used to sell stuff by the roadside. Whether it’s tuna or trinkets, there’s always someone at every stop who wants your money. 

As we pass along there are many types of vehicle but a frequent one is the tuk-tuk, which is used equally for carrying people or goods. It was something we hadn’t seen in any quantity elsewhere in South America. 

Looking out over the forest

Subsistence living conditions

So much in South America seems relatively primitive with many people subsisting on farming small plots or working in low paid work. There’s a beauty about the country but you’re never far from poverty, dirt and dereliction. The terrain is striking and Ecuador even more so because of its many active volcanoes - not that we saw any! The towns though are generally very clean and there’s little or no graffiti - an omnipresent problem elsewhere.

Fairly primitive toilet facilities - we'll not show you the gents!

We arrived at the artisan village and were given a long, translated lecture about the discovery and representation of the natives of the area. This was after the very primitive toilet facilities. Then we took a walk through the forest.  

The river that had been dry

A river that was empty yesterday was filled today by yesterday’s rain and flowing fast. Roads become washed out easily here, whether they are metalled or not. In addition there are warm springs of sulphur water that the locals use to wash clothes. It’s volcanic water from the movement of the Galapagos Plate pushing under the continent. It moves at the rate your fingernails grow, relentlessly. 

Wildlife abounded

Flora and fauna

More flora

The walk was swelteringly hot and we dodged into shade wherever possible. Wildlife abounded, with birds, pigs and all manner of insects, some of which seemed to take a fancy to me. We were Deet-ed and that kept the majority of nasties away.  We had many photo opportunities and Gabrielle even took a 4-minute video of her own bottom! (View by subscribing only.) One stop included a pool fed by the sulphur water and people were bathing and sunning themselves around it. There were some jealous looks as we sweated in the sun. 

The viewpoint tower

The tour ended at the top of a rickety wooden tower which looked out over the whole valley and then we had a half mile walk (stumble) back to the bus. 

The lodge

The view

And so to lunch at a lodge in the jungle. This was pretty civilised, with a pool and jacuzzi overlooking a dramatic valley view and the rainforest. After enchiladas we were served a buffet of fish and there was jam rolypoly for afters. Seriously. Meanwhile, the local wildlife still wanted our attention and birds of many sorts soared, swooped and glided while an iguana put on an acrobatic display by first climbing up and then falling off a high tree branch. 

Following lunch we climbed back into the rattle-trap bus for the two-and-a-half hours of clanging, banging and lurching, back to the ship. It didn’t disappoint.

At the same time as all of this, it’s my younger son, Tom’s, birthday today. I’d carefully ordered beer and whisky from Amazon and was delighted to find a 24 variety pack of Brewdog ales. I thought no more about it. This morning, Tom told me he would enjoy the beer at Christmas. I didn’t understand until he revealed that what I had ordered was in fact a beer advent calendar! So, happy birthday, Tom. Sorry for being a useless present buyer!

We’re over an hour late leaving Manta as passengers who took a trip to the Galapagos Islands from Callau (Lima) have now rejoined the ship, but late. More from Gabrielle tomorrow.