A confused glacier and Nick on one

The Pio XI Glacier

Posh frocks and James Bond suit ready, we set off to Anderson’s for our evening perambulate and more to the point, an alcoholic beverage. Anderson’s reminds us of a sedate, rather stuffy Gentleman’s Club, so isn’t our first choice, but I wanted a specific drink which they don’t serve in the Glass House. 

Scrubbed up for Sindhu

Then for the real deal at Sindhu. We both felt ready for another fine dining experience and something with a little kick. I’d phoned Sindhu in the afternoon asking for a window seat, knowing that it would still be light at 10pm. I was informed seating was on a first come first served basis and if we wanted to guarantee a window table, we could dine at 6pm. Given we’d had a late breakfast, no lunch, but a light afternoon tea at 3pm, the idea of eating at 6pm was a non-starter. Thanks, but no thanks was the polite reply.

Gabrielle's meal was interrupted by some old bloke

However, when we arrived at Sindhu at 8pm, there were plenty of tables and we were escorted to the best seat in the house. We were looked after by Elvis again who thanked us profusely for returning to Sindhu. Elvis has somehow managed to create a new title, Ma’amSir. For our two-hour dining entertainment, we experienced primetime visuals. A scenery of ever-changing mountains, islands and crags, all at a very civilised 10 knots. The wind had dropped considerably and we were back to calm fjords. Bliss.

We certainly needed a while for dinner to settle, before going to bed, so we went in search of entertainment at the theatre. Internationally-acclaimed cross-over tenor Roy Locke was the star of tonight’s show. Now, I’m not too sure what I was expecting, but if I’m honest, I didn’t really know what a “cross-over” tenor was. Was this something to do with cross-dressing? Apparently not, it’s just a fancy expression for the fact he sang a variety of songs. Why not just say that then!?

His claim to fame is that he has been the Phantom (in Phantom of the Opera) in Australia and New Zealand. OK, sounds good, he shouldn’t be a doozy then. Now, on the plus side, he had a stunning voice, I’ll give him that, but he was just an annoying performer. He had a strange habit of “conducting” with his left hand behind him while he was singing and for me, who has ridiculously sensitive hearing, he’d have been better singing without a microphone. There was also a bizarre affectation where he kept calling the pianist “Maestro”.  He performed a variety of songs from the shows, so actually, not dissimilar to the Headliner troop who performed a couple of nights ago. Both of us love Phantom and Les Mis and he performed a series of songs from both. Internationally-critically-acclaimed, or not, we both thought the performance from the Headliners troop was sung with more stirring emotion. Nope, he really wasn’t our cup of tea, so we won’t be returning to his next show. He actually asked for an encore. Really? That’s rather bad form in my book.

7am is Glacier Time

This morning we woke just after sunrise, at 6.45. Dressing gowns on to view our initial vista. Already, we knew we were close to the Pio XI glacier as, being Glacier experts now, we could see the change in the water colour and knew that we were now in meltwater. Being a tad bleary-eyed, we were wondering what the strange graveyard of objects was floating by, then realised they were icebergs. We kept moving closer and closer to the glacier, inching at a 2-knot speed. The sea was perfectly flat calm with force 1 conditions. At this point, we realised we were in for a stunning show, so threw on all our cold-weather gear so we could appreciate the spectacle. 

The Pio XI Glacier

Some interesting facts about Pio X. First up, it seems to have an identity crisis. Although known as the Pio XI, it is also known as the Pio X, named after Pope Pius XI. In addition, it is also known as The Brüggen Glacier. This glacier, whatever its name actually is, is 41 miles in length. Just get your head around that. Unlike other glaciers, it grew by 5.1 miles over a period of 31 years from 1945. The dark marks you see in our photos are medial moraines. This is formed where two glaciers meet. The little icebergs, up to 1 metre in height, are Growlers and the larger icebergs, 5 metres in height, are Bergy Bits. 

The Pio XI Glacier

As we approached the glacier, Nick’s comment was “it’s a bit too big to photograph”. Then, as we stood there in awe and wonderment he said in all seriousness “wow, that’d make a lot of ice for gin and tonics”. His next marvel was “Chile’s just amazing, it’s like Scotland only on steroids”. Then his final helpful comment as the Captain was offering a 360 view for all passengers to enjoy said spectacle, was “I’m getting a bit giddy now”.

We heard some strange rumbling noises almost like muffled gunfire. Sadly, neither of us got the video evidence (other than our memory), but a chunk of ice had moved down the glacier and then simply roared into the sea. The splash was resounding. I couldn’t help but feel that our being there and the vibration from the ship had caused this movement. It’s an absolute privilege and thrill to see such wonders in the world, but recognise that by being here, in the thick of it, we are potentially changing its course. We are now glacier-ed out, so you’ll be pleased to know, there will be no more shots of columns of blue ice. Pio X/XI/Brüggen has been the most spectacular glacier we have seen on this trip.

After witnessing that particular wonder, we ambled for breakfast. Sadly, Ben Church (the Geologist) was talking today about improving your holiday photos. What that’s got to do with geology rather beat me, but after having one speaker on the ship already who had given this type of talk, we decided we’d give this one a miss. Today’s breakfast music delights was stirring classical and military music. At one point, Abide With Me was played. “Is the Captain trying to tell us something?” was Nick’s latest quip. He really is on one today. Time to clear our heads with a brisk walk pounding the decks. And it sure was bracing. On one side of the ship, we had a relatively easy walk; on the other, we were hanging onto our glasses and each other as we battled the winds.

From noon yesterday to noon today, we have steamed 296 nautical miles and have 1078 nautical miles remaining to our next stop on Tuesday, San Antonio. We’ve been retracing the steps of Charles Darwin and Robert Fitzroy in The Beagle and also Hernando Magellan who sailed the Magellan Straights in 1520. At mid-day it was a balmy 15.5 degrees, with 40-knot winds, but with rain coming this afternoon and high sea as we return to the South Pacific. The sea temperature was 9 degrees.

After lunch, it was off to listen to Tristram Elmhirst’s lecture on Forensics: bugs, bullets, blood and bad deeds. Another very interesting and well-presented talk. He certainly knows how to fill the theatre. He provides a mixture of how the above items are used to establish evidence at scenes of crimes. He then uses the information he’s imparted, to discuss an old case he’d been involved with and how the scenes of crime department would refute the accused’s statement of events. 

By late afternoon I was back to wearing my bands as we were experiencing force 9 seas. So we’re back to going up and downhill in our room, depending on the movement of the ship. There looks to be a great act on at the theatre this evening. An acrobatic duo. The write-up sounds like a cross between ballet and acrobatics. Should be interesting, if I can stagger my way to the pointy end of the ship this evening!