South America landfall at Recife

Gabrielle was eager to get on the bus!

We docked at Recife around 7am local time. It’s a city of some 4 million inhabitants, the capital of the Pernambuco state of Brazil and is referred to as “The Venice of Brazil” because of its many rivers and waterways. It’s close to the easternmost point of South America … and, yes, I have been checking up on Google. However, our initial view was of the breakwater and dirty brown sea with floating detritus. Not the best welcome for our first landfall in South America. What was I expecting? Inca temples? Mayan ruins. Wrong country and wrong location, Nick!

First thing, it was already a humid 26 degrees with hazy skies and the temperature crept up steadily as the day progressed. At the time of our 7-lap stomp around the deck (yes, even though we were in port - it’s quiet and a known environment) it was up to 28 degrees and we alternated between full sun and shade with the odd dodge indoors because part of the deck was closed off for maintenance. At those points you realise how grateful you are for air conditioning! 

Now, call us sad - “You’re sad, Nick!” - yes, thank you, but the laundrette on board is state-of-the art with industrial washers and dryers that make short of everything from smalls to, erm, bigs? While the deck was being addressed, our clothes were tumbling happily and our cabin is now graced with various items of clothing, airing. Near to the laundrette is the gym - the one Gabrielle went to too late yesterday. She did her exercise in the cabin today because she can’t stand the shame!

If you’re startled - nay, amazed - that Nick and Gabrielle should be up at 7am, we can only put it down to the fact that our body clocks are entirely shot by three time zones in six days - actually, four as we shifted mistakenly yesterday. We seem to be completely bemused by what time, day or location it is - just like normal retirement, then, I guess!

The wildlife around the port is varied with large buzzard-like hawks circling an area of woodland just inland from where we have docked. They seem to be harassing smaller birds that gather in large groups on the floor or on the roofs of buildings. We also spotted what may have been a heron, but more likely some sort of large egret which calmly plonked itself in the middle of the dual carriageway next to the ship.

We visited cultural landmarks around the city and also the home of Ricardo Brennand in the afternoon. Recife (pronounced heh-see-fee) is a historic centre and also a tourist spot with its attractive Boa Viagem beach. We had booked to go on a catamaran tour around the waterways, but changed our minds to have some culture and sculpture. And we were not disappointed.

After the tortuous exit from the dock area - a bus to get to the terminal, a walk for no apparent purpose and then the tour bus itself - we settled down with Leo our guide to visit the Institute of Ricardo Brennand. 

On the way, we were struck by the contrasts between the gleaming slender tower blocks and the ordinary folks' dwellings that lined the streets. 

Tangled phone lines and power cables twisted along the streets and reminded us strongly of the same thing in Vietnam.

The access is lined with majestic palm trees down a long drive and then you are presented with gardens full of statuary and a rather baroque, Scottish-style castle. 

Inside is a stunning collection of artefacts from around the world, majoring on knives, swords and scantily clad young women in paint, bronze and alabaster. You could spend days there - we had about an hour and a half. 

There were many novelties, the most striking being the double sided statue. Gobelin tapestries lined walls and contemporary art work by Brennand and others were displayed in a massive area that is used for conferences and weddings. The eclectic nature of the place reminded us strongly of the Russell-Cotes Museum in Bournemouth, but on an even bigger scale and with more weapons and nudity.

As we drove back towards the ship we noted the fact that so many buildings are dingy and badly built and decorated. Rough cast concrete dominates, with faded paint. Do you ever see new paint? It always seems to be mildewed and blackened, presumably because of the heat and humidity.

Our last stop was a central square housing government buildings, in the centre of which was a huge and ancient baobab tree. 

We walked from there to the Golden Chapel - a frankly grotesque orgy of gold leaf and depictions of ritual crucifixion, not just of Christ but of acolytes and devotees who had shown their faith by dying horribly. Oh, and the statues had real hair! Seriously. 

To be honest the best bit was the golden cat who was apparently the official tour guide.

And so, back to the ship for a cuppa and a shower before dinner.

P.S. Vesselfinder doesn't seem to be updating so not sure what's happening there.