In the Doldrums

Overnight, we have come into a belt of tropical weather called the Tropical Convergence Zone where weather systems from two hemispheres begin to meet. Typically, this can mean squally weather and rain or total calm - hence its other name: The Doldrums. As you can see, Gabrielle is less than impressed with the rainfall! However, it’s a warm 27 degrees and quite humid on board ship.

We were woken by the sounds of splashing water as rain came off the top of the ship and bounced onto our balcony, soaking the furniture and even getting as far as the open doorway itself. There has been little separation between sea and sky as the clouds hang low over the water and, from time to time, merge with the surface as a continuous mist. It’s eerily quiet - only the thrum of the engines and the splash of the ship cutting through the water.

The Captain reported that an Ascension Frigate Bird had been spotted off the bow of the ship this morning. Given that we are mid-Atlantic, this bird is definitely sea-faring but stays aloft for extended periods on its 2-metre wingspan.

We are setting our clocks back regularly at the moment, and the third hour is removed tonight as we cross the Equator, sometime around midnight local time. At the time of writing we are three degrees North of the Equator. As we have already crossed on previous adventures, we remain smugly content that we are seasoned travellers!

As pounding the decks is going to be rather hazardous until they dry out a bit, we have been pounding the corridors instead, visiting one end of Aurora to another as we attend the Theatre for a talk on Recife - our next landfall point and the first in South America itself - and the Explorers desk to change our tickets for a more exciting trip, having had a foretaste of what each expedition holds. More on that when we have had our trip on Tuesday.

The ship is beautiful with Art Deco detailing in its decoration and a quite dramatic atrium that cuts through three floors from Deck 5 to Deck 8. There are three main stairwells and we are getting to know them well and recognise them by their artwork and the colour of their carpets. The game is to laugh at each other when we turn the wrong way as we emerge on our deck (10), having come up a stairwell away from our usual track.

Today and tomorrow are relaxing days at sea where we can take part in activities, watch a show or listen to a speaker. Last night, for example, we listened to an Eric Clapton tribute who was passable but weirdly decided to finish his set with Whiter Shade of Pale - bizarre! Today, we have just watched a speaker - Jean Heard - describing the life of Nell Gwynne, mistress of Charles II ... and then acting the same information out as a gossipy prostitute. We knew things might be on the poor side when we saw that this person was evidently the partner of the guy who Gabrielle said we would miss if she was washing her hair today. Needless to say, Gabrielle wasn't washing her hair, we gave him a miss (and walked the decks instead as the weather had improved) ... and we should have done so with this one too! The lady concerned is doing five more of these historical histrionics, but without us, we think. We have high hopes for the violinist tonight - Tom Suha.

There’s so much to do but, being Nick and Gabs, we are spending a good deal of time in our lovely cabin and sitting on our balcony, writing words for you Dear Reader!